The “remapped” channel #’s are in something called the VCT (virtual channel table), which is information that is transmitted within the DTV signal, and is information specific to and from each indivdual station —

The VCT information can’t be decoded by the receiver unless a signal sufficent for a lock is achieved — which is more or less a signal sufficent for DTV reception. In some, or many cases viewers need to adjust antenna differently for different stations in their area in order to achieve a signal sufficent for the receiver to decode the VCT info from each station.

Thus, If someone isn’t getting a good enough signal of a certian station(s) in their area for any given reason (antenna misadjustment, multipath uncorrectable by receiver, interference/etc) during the “autoscan” for channels … For example, In the case of WCET-DT, if their signal isn’t found via a “scan”, it would be futile for the user to “punch in 48″ on their remote to try to “Find” them”, including trying to adjust antenna while looking at a “signal meter”. Futile, because the “tuner” actually has to find the signal on 34 and decode the PSIP info first before it can be mapped and displayed to the user as being “present” on 48.1/48.2 …

Thus, DTV receivers need to have the capability to allow the viewer to “Punch in” the RF (physical) channel # of transmission and display some sort of signal quality meter to the user to aid in antenna adjustment, in order to allow users who need to do so to manually and “indivdually” add/scan in indivudual stations. Fortunately, most receivers do have this capability, but in my experience it usually is not well described(if it is mentioned at all) in the user manual.

Also, of course the user who doesn’t find all his local stations via an “autoscan”, or the user who needs to know whether he needs a VHF/UHF or UHF only antenna for use in his area needs to be aware of this issue, and also the actual channel # they need to tune to and where they are (VHF/UHF/etc) . Currently, websites such as FCC’s TV query, http://www.tvfool.com or http://www.antennaweb do provide this information. However, It may also be useful for broadcasters to provide accurate information to users about this issue, as well as the “actual” channel # for those viewers who don’t find it via an “autoscan” ….

RE: CH 2

Make sure that your antenna is a UHF and VHF. I don’t know what city you are in so I can’t check but it may be that the CBS DTV signal is in the VHF band. Most are in the UHF band.

Also, “More is not always better.” There are instances when an amplified antenna saturates the tuner and causes no reception at all at all. Try turning the amplifier off.

Re Power down

In the menu there is a setting to disable the power down of to set it for selected time intervals. Since it only consumes about 7 watts it is not a significant power eater but eveery little bit helps.

I tried recording the low power stations that are now different channel names… no problem.

My other TV is hooked up to the roof antenna, and I don’t know if this will make a difference in picking up the station- Channel 2- CBS. I may have to live without it unless anyone has any ideas ..Thank you..

I would recommend this as I’m sure there is more to learn- having trouble with the sleep timer and power down features.

I cannot use the 9950 remote without the A/D on? So I use my VCR remote.. it’s really not a universal remote. On my other remote for the TV, I was able to use that alone with the TV on and VCR off. The remote has some issues or I’m not set up right… and I do miss the “sleep timer” feature as on this it only turns off the “converter box” . Another question is the “power down” option? The manual was little help and so are the local radio shack i purchased these from.. any suggestions would be appreciated . Thank you.

Zenith Model DTT901 // RS Cat #15-193

I am aware of these antennas. We tried one here a few years ago with marginal success. I was not familiar with the name. Thanks for sharing.

In my area, about half the stations I receive do not plan convert, but even if they did, there is a problem. People who buy a box now, when many stations their area may not have converted over yet, they have to choose between viewing the new DTV stations or viewing the stations still using the old waveform. That is, whoever planned this thing did not take into account that even if every station in an area converts by February, there will be a period of time during which people will want to view both. That is, this coupon business is encouraging people to buy something that they may not use for months. Then, they may find out that they need a more powerful antenna, etc. It would have made much more sense to have a box that could be used with both waveforms during the changeover.

Anyhow, I think I have a fix. I plan to hook an amplified antenna up to the DTV converter box and to the antenna feed of my TV, using a splitter. I’m banking on the antenna gain more than compensating for the loss in the splitter. Then, I plan to hook the DTV converter up to the antenna feed of my VCR and use the video/audio cables to connect the VCR to the AUX input of the TV. Later, I may try it the other way around. At any rate, this would allow me to switch between the two waveforms with no additional investment and while keeping the option of remote control. This will also allow me to check out what else I will need.

Not sure what the reference to your computer means….if you get a USB receiver for the computer you don’t need the TV or the DTV converter.

As for powering the TV and Converter on battery power….you would have to do the math. The TV, if it has a CRT (picture tube) will most likely draw the most current. The DTV converter we use in our lobby draws only 7 watts. Look on your TV to see what wattage it pulls.

This is only a guess but I bet that a fully charge 12 volt auto battery running a small DC/AC inverter would run both for several hours.

Again as you say, not an elegant solution, but it will work.

again, not an elegant solution…

Yes this works. The only downside of the splitter option is that in many cases the Low Power stations are just that, LOW POWER. The splitter does reduce, albeit not much, the signal strength of an already weak signal. Instead of a splitter a A/B swich will work as well.

Your use of the AV cable is right on… This is the best way to connect the DTV box and any other video sources. Otherwise you have too many Ch 3 or 4 modulators all fighting each other.

Thanks for the comment.